French red wine, is no one drinking it anymore?
As the tastes of young consumers in France change, the sales of French red wine have plummeted, with consumption dropping by about 90% since the 1970s. However, this is just one of the main reasons; challenges such as climate change, declining overseas demand, and overcapacity have also emerged, with some local wines priced as low as €2.50 per bottle
French red wine is facing a "survival crisis."
On January 3rd, according to the Financial Times, domestic red wine sales in France have plummeted as French consumers shift towards beer, spirits, and non-alcoholic beverages. The Bordeaux Wine Industry Association (CIVB) stated that red wine consumption in France has decreased by about 90% since the 1970s.
Data from Nielsen also shows that total wine consumption in France has dropped by more than 80% since 1945, and this trend is accelerating, with the amount of red wine purchased by the younger generation being only half of that of the millennial generation. Jean-Pierre Durand, a board member of CIVB, stated:
"The drinking habits of each generation of French people are changing. If a grandfather drinks 300 liters of red wine a year, the father drinks 180 liters, the son may only drink 30 liters."
It is noteworthy that not all categories of wine are equally affected. According to a wine buyer quoted in the report, Thomas Castet, "the production of high-yield, high-tannin red wines is declining significantly, and this trend is accelerating with generational changes."
In response, some wineries have begun to take measures. Brigitte Tribaudeau, who runs Château Mauvinon in Bordeaux, noted that she had observed changes in young people's drinking habits years ago and started producing white and orange wines in 2018, while also experimenting with low-alcohol wines.
However, not all wineries can or are willing to make changes. Shifting from red wine to white wine production requires significant investment in new vines and equipment, and some regions are not suitable for growing multiple grape varieties. Additionally, some wineries are cautious about innovation and marketing due to traditional or cost considerations.
However, the change in young people's drinking preferences is just one of the main reasons; issues such as climate change, declining overseas demand, and overcapacity are also challenging the French wine industry. In 2024, many wineries are expected to see a decrease in harvests due to high temperatures and mold. Some producers have stated that overproduction and the presence of a large number of low-end wines have damaged the image of Bordeaux, which is known for "high-end wines." Locally, up to 9,500 hectares of vines may need to be uprooted to curb overproduction and disease spread.
In France, some wines are priced as low as €2.50 per bottle. Durand, head of wine producer AdVini, stated:
"We cannot continue to produce wines that people do not drink; when the existing model fails, we must adapt. In the future, the market demand for low-end wines will be very small, as the younger generation values quality over quantity."